MON REALE - SICILY
Visiting a good church or cathedral is more often than not an uplifting experience on all sorts of levels. Historical interest, architectural features, interesting pieces of decorative art with a story to tell, and the opportunity to experience a spiritual place are all usually on the agenda. All of this proved to be the case when I visited Monreale - the huge cathedral which overlooks the Conca d'Oro (Golden Valley) just outside Palermo in Sicily.
According to legend, the Madonna appeared before King William II of Sicily in 1174 and led him to a place where his dad had hidden a treasure telling him to use the resource to build a great church. Within ten years this splendid building, with an attached monastery, would be the result.
The front entrance to the church, facing the Piazza Guglielmo, is flanked by a couple of asymmetric towers and a pair of huge bronze doors provide access to the vast interior but its not the architectural space inside that provides the main focus of interest. Go inside and one's breath is taken away by a cycle of Byzantine inspired medieval mosaics which cover over 70,000 square feet of wall space.
In the nave the mosaics tell stories from the Old and New Testaments and include The Creation, the story of Noah's Ark and the Sacrifice of Isaac. Above the thrones to either side of the main apse are images of King William being crowned by Christ and the other showing him presenting the cathedral to the Madonna. Not surprisingly its the image of Christ himself on the curved walls of the main apse that dominates everything. Its a huge image of Christ as Pantocrator showing him with bent, outstretched arms keen to embrace his flock.
This mosaic cycle has to be one of the wonders of the medieval world in Italy. It became famous in its own day and set Monreale on the path to becoming an important pilgrimage site. Today visitors continue to flock to Monreale to see and experience this wonderful church. Don't miss it if you go to Palermo.
Access to the church is not easy. Cars and buses stay in a car park beneath the plateau where the town and church is situated and there's a steep flight of steps to be trodden to get up to the main square. Taxis are available in the car park to assist those challenged by the steps.
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