MON REALE - SICILY

Visiting a good church or cathedral is more often than not an uplifting experience on all sorts of levels. Historical interest, architectural features, interesting pieces of decorative art with a story to tell, and the opportunity to experience a spiritual place are all usually on the agenda. All of this proved to be the case when I visited Monreale - the huge cathedral which overlooks the Conca d'Oro (Golden Valley) just outside Palermo in Sicily.

 

According to legend, the Madonna appeared before King William II of Sicily in 1174 and led him to a place where his dad had hidden a treasure telling him to use the resource to build a great church. Within ten years this splendid building, with an attached monastery, would be the result. 

The front entrance to the church, facing the Piazza Guglielmo, is flanked by a couple of asymmetric towers and a pair of huge bronze doors provide access to the vast interior but its not the architectural space inside that provides the main focus of interest. Go inside and one's breath is taken away by a cycle of Byzantine inspired medieval mosaics which cover over 70,000 square feet of wall space.

 

In the nave the mosaics tell stories from the Old and New Testaments and include The Creation, the story of Noah's Ark and the Sacrifice of Isaac. Above the thrones to either side of the main apse are images of King William being crowned by Christ and the other showing him presenting the cathedral to the Madonna. Not surprisingly its the image of Christ himself on the curved walls of the main apse that dominates everything. Its a huge image of Christ as Pantocrator showing him with bent, outstretched arms keen to embrace his flock. 

This mosaic cycle has to be one of the wonders of the medieval world in Italy. It became famous in its own day and set Monreale on the path to becoming an important pilgrimage site. Today visitors continue to flock to Monreale to see and experience this wonderful church. Don't miss it if you go to Palermo. 

Access to the church is not easy. Cars and buses stay in a car park beneath the plateau where the town and church is situated and there's a steep flight of steps to be trodden to get up to the main square. Taxis are available in the car park to assist those challenged by the steps.  

 NAPLES - CHIOSTRO DI SANTA CHIARA

Our last Neapolitan visit was to the huge convent complex of Saint Claire. It was lunchtime so the church, badly damaged during World War 2 and restored afterwards, was closed. The Cloister was open and what a space!! The huge medieval arcades had frescoes added in the 17th century (now badly degraded) but the big change came in the 1740's when architect Vaccaro divided the central area in to 4 quadrants with a series of octagonal columns which he then covered with Maiolica tiles installing Maiolica benches for the nuns to sit on! Nuts but fabulous too!!

A selection of some of the objects which came out of the damaged World War II church and other objects owned by the church were on display in rooms on one side of the cloister.

In a room by the entrance the church's wonderful presepe was also on display - made in the 18th century in a nearby workshop and at a time when the fashion was to portray nativities as if in a local landscape and with the persona dressed in costume of the time. A fascinating perspective on life in the 18th century Campania region I suppose you could say. 

There's a 6 euro charge to enter the cloister but this also includes admission to the museum and presepe. Concessions are avaiable for the over 60's. 

NAPLES - AN EXTRAVAGANZA OF BAROQUE

 SAN GREGORIO ARMENO, NAPLES.

Armenian nuns founded this church in Naples in the 8th century, having fled Byzantium with the relics of St Gregory to avoid persecution. The church and convent was rebuilt in the 16th century but the church entrance and interior was remodelled in the dramatic and flamboyant Baroque style seen in the 18th century.

Baroque style had its origins in Rome in the late 16th century and was essentially a reaction to the increasing influence of the Protestant Reformation. The catholic church establishment commissioned architects and artists to come up with something that would help re-establish the pre-eminence of the church in the popular imagination. Rich materials, elaborate exaggerated classical constructions with an emphasis on creating drama and an emotional response was the result and it spread from Rome (St Peter's was essentially its first great manifestation) to all parts of Italy and then to Europe, gradually also encroaching on the secular establishment too.

 

The interior of San Gregorio Armeno, in its 18th century makeover, brought these decorative qualities to the church interior in spades through architectural fittings, painting and through the decorative arts. Here is an extravaganza which takes the breath away even today even though its a much dimmer and grimier place than it would have been in the 1700's. Shock and awe would have been the by-word in the day and who wouldn't have been impressed by what was on display?

Hard to believe this is all just off the busy and bustling Via San Gregorio Armeno - the street of the presepe shops.

NAPLES - NATIVITY STREET!!

The Italians love their "presepe" - model nativity scenes and they've been made in Naples since at least the 18th century. In the old town, with an entrance off the square next to Chiesa San Maggiore, is Via San Gregorio Armeno, a whole street of artisanal shops which specialize in traditional hand-painted terra cotta figures and model backgrounds for punters wishing to create the perfect "presepe". Choose from cheap to expensive figures of Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, shepherds by the dozen and of course the three Kings to complete the ensemble and if you are feeling really ambitious you can select a suitable background stable as well. These shops, often with workshops behind them, are open the year round. To me they perfectly capture the essence of the Italian love of depicting the greatest narrative of all time in a realistic fashion, but in a form heavily influenced by the Italian baroque style. Today the figures available extend beyond the nativity theme to include the Commedia del Arte as well as contemporary celebrities too! American President's, members of the British Royal family, famous footballers - all are crammed together on the overcrowded stalls outside some of the shops. It's a shame that the inevitable Chinese tourist tat is encroaching, however, on what was and still is to an extent, a fascinating Neapolitan artisanal hub. Wonderfully atmospheric and still not to be missed - put this street on your list of "must sees". Oh - and the Metropolitan Museum of art Christmas Tree every year exhibits the most wonderful presepi - a gift to the New York museum from the city of Naples!!

NAPLES - CHIESA SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE

CHIESA SAN LORENZO MAGGIORE, NAPOLI. Naples boasts a huge number of churches with amazing, well preserved historic interiors. Together they provide historic testimony to church patronage of the arts in times gone by and the money that flowed in to church coffers from private individuals and families keen to secure their place in heaven. Here's a fantastic starter which should be on any visitor's bucket list if they have a smidgeon of interest in architectural history related to the history of the city. A replaced 18th century Baroque facade, a medieval gothic nave and sanctuary, a period cloister and beneath it all an amazingly well preserved Roman Street - 2000 years old. There's even a baker's shop complete with oven. How's that for the history of a city in one building?? Blown away by this one!!! Access to the underground remains is via a staircase in one corner of the cloister - not to be confused with the next door access the underground catacombs of the city. Entrance is free unless going on a guided tour!Shame that the baroque facade of the church was under scaffolding at the time of our recent visit!

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