NAPLES - NATIVITY STREET!!

The Italians love their "presepe" - model nativity scenes and they've been made in Naples since at least the 18th century. In the old town, with an entrance off the square next to Chiesa San Maggiore, is Via San Gregorio Armeno, a whole street of artisanal shops which specialize in traditional hand-painted terra cotta figures and model backgrounds for punters wishing to create the perfect "presepe". Choose from cheap to expensive figures of Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, shepherds by the dozen and of course the three Kings to complete the ensemble and if you are feeling really ambitious you can select a suitable background stable as well. These shops, often with workshops behind them, are open the year round. To me they perfectly capture the essence of the Italian love of depicting the greatest narrative of all time in a realistic fashion, but in a form heavily influenced by the Italian baroque style. Today the figures available extend beyond the nativity theme to include the Commedia del Arte as well as contemporary celebrities too! American President's, members of the British Royal family, famous footballers - all are crammed together on the overcrowded stalls outside some of the shops. It's a shame that the inevitable Chinese tourist tat is encroaching, however, on what was and still is to an extent, a fascinating Neapolitan artisanal hub. Wonderfully atmospheric and still not to be missed - put this street on your list of "must sees". Oh - and the Metropolitan Museum of art Christmas Tree every year exhibits the most wonderful presepi - a gift to the New York museum from the city of Naples!!